November 26, 2019
Guided through Active Ingredients
GUIDED THROUGH ACTIVE INGREDIENTS
By Nateisha Scott
The active ingredients that are changing your skin
The evolution of beauty has resulted in an extensive amount of knowledge being at our fingertips. With the discovery of new ingredients promising to revolutionise our skin, it is important to understand their importance. What active ingredients are doing for our skin and Why are they are so beneficial?
What active ingredients are doing for our skin?
As defined by dermatologists and skin therapists alike, active ingredients are a component that has an effect on the diagnosis, cure, treatment or prevention of a structure or function in accordance to the body. In skincare terms, active ingredients in our products help to treat targeted skincare concerns. Although many ingredients can be used for more than one function or concern, there are primary actives that work to deliver the best result on the skin. Frome one skin concern to the next, this guide opens up the meaning behind the skincare active’s that are on the market.
For Sensitive Skin
Lactic acid is gentle enough for sensitive skin, when focusing on exfoliating then the acid works to remove dead skin cells and marks as well as soothing the skin without being too harsh on your skin’s barrier.
What active ingredients are doing for our skin?
As defined by dermatologists and skin therapists alike, active ingredients are a component that has an effect on the diagnosis, cure, treatment or prevention of a structure or function in accordance to the body. In skincare terms, active ingredients in our products help to treat targeted skincare concerns. Although many ingredients can be used for more than one function or concern, there are primary actives that work to deliver the best result on the skin. Frome one skin concern to the next, this guide opens up the meaning behind the skincare active’s that are on the market.
For Sensitive Skin
Lactic acid is gentle enough for sensitive skin, when focusing on exfoliating then the acid works to remove dead skin cells and marks as well as soothing the skin without being too harsh on your skin’s barrier.
For acne/blemish-prone skin
Salicylic acid is a BHA and its structure is more oil-based so it can penetrate into the pores of the skin, breaking down the connection between skin cells. Once it penetrates the skin, salicylic acid dissolves the skins debris and clears clogged pores. For acne prone skin, removing the skin cells and combatting oiliness is vital so salicylic acid then works to do both elements effectively.
FOR inflamed SKIN
NAC Y2 is also a formula that was originally created to heal surgical patients, but the ingredient also worked to minimise scarring and speed up skin’s healing. For any inflamed skin, both Niacinamide and NAC Y2 work to calm and heal the skin.
FOR PIGMENTATION/UNEVEN SKIN
Retinol helps speed up cell turnover to remove sizeable pigmentation and smooth uneven skin texture as well as combats blemishes and reduces the visible signs of surface scarring. Niacinamide & liquorice root extract.
For acne/blemish-prone skin
Salicylic acid is a BHA and its structure is more oil-based so it can penetrate into the pores of the skin, breaking down the glue between dead skin cells. Once it penetrates the skin, salicylic acid dissolves the skins debris and clears clogged pores. For acne prone skin, removing the skin cells and combatting oiliness is vital so salicylic acid then works to do both elements effectively.
FOR inflamed SKIN
NAC Y2 is also a formula that was originally created to heal surgical patients, but the ingredient also worked to minimise scarring and speed up skin’s healing. For any inflamed skin, both Niacinamide and NAC Y2 work to calm and heal the skin.
FOR PIGMENTATION/UNEVEN SKIN
Retinol helps speed up cell turnover to remove sizeable pigmentation and smooth uneven skin texture as well as combats blemishes and reduces the visible signs of surface scarring. Niacinamide & liquorice root extract.
FOR mature skin
Retinol is a hero product for mature skin because it reactivates the skin renewal process. It is effective at tackling sun damage, age spots, fine lines and wrinkles as well as exfoliating and smoothing the skin’s texture. In addition finding advanced delivery systems like Celestial Black Diamond particles and Meso Micro Masks to puncture the skin and deliver the active ingredients without loosing the effectiveness whilst penetrating the skin.
FOR dry skin/barrier strengthening
Phospholipids will reinforce the skin’s lipid barrier to lock moisture and hydrate & any oil-based products. Overtime your skin barrier weakens through environmental aggressors, UV, Pollution and irritants and a strong barrier is needed for overall good skin health. As a form of vitamin B3, Niacinamide can improve skin texture and strengthen the protective barrier function of the skin. It increases the ceramide production in the skin which works to aid better water-retention as well as improve the skin’s structure.
FOR dehydrated skin
Hyaluronic Acid is your skin’s best friend when it comes to hydration and as a naturally occurring sugar molecule it can absorb and retain moisture within the skin. Absorbing moisture like a sponge, it pulls hydration towards the skin instead of withdrawing from it. In conjunction with a moisturiser, the acid will provide the necessary hydration that your skin needs.
FOR mature skin
Retinol is a hero product for mature skin because it reactivates the skin renewal process. It is effective at tackling sun damage, age spots, fine lines and wrinkles as well as exfoliating and smoothing the skin’s texture. In addition finding advanced delivery systems like Celestial Black Diamond particles and Meso Micro Masks to puncture the skin and deliver the active ingredients without loosing the effectiveness whilst penetrating the skin.
FOR dry skin/barrier strengthening
Phospholipids will reinforce the skin’s lipid barrier to lock moisture and hydrate any oil-based products. Overtime your skin barrier weakens through environmental aggressors, UV, Pollution and irritants and a strong barrier is needed for overall good skin health. As a form of vitamin B3, Niacinamide can improve skin texture and strengthen the protective barrier function of the skin. It increases the ceramide production in the skin which works to aid better water-retention as well as improve the skin’s structure.
FOR dehydrated skin
Hyaluronic Acid is your skin’s best friend when it comes to hydration and as a naturally occurring sugar molecule it can absorb and retain moisture within the skin. Absorbing moisture like a sponge, it pulls hydration towards the skin instead of withdrawing from it. In conjunction with a moisturiser, the acid will provide the necessary hydration that your skin needs.
FOR dull/tired skin
ATP reenergises the cells in your skin, meaning Adenosine Triphosphate which is a complex organic chemical that is a precursor to DNA. ATP provides energy to fuel living cells. Boosting the skin’s cellular energy to bring the complexion alive; refreshing, revitalising and reinvigorating the skin – eliminating fatigued and dull skin.
FOR firming skin
Progeline is a peptide of 3 amino acids and works to prevent the synthesis of Progerin ( a protein that contributes to the appearance of fine lines, wrinkles and sagging skin). Progeline therefore increases skin’s elasticity and firmness as well as reduces the appearance of deep wrinkles and sagging.
FOR protecting against pollution
Our environment is becoming harsher as pollution levels are increasing and because of this it is more and more important to protect the skin against these aggressors. Incorporating a mix of antioxidants and vitamins into your routine, they work to nourish your skin barrier, neutralise free radicals and detoxify the skin.
FOR glowing skin
The inner glow is always an element that you want added to the skin and aside from regular exfoliation, ingredients like Vitamin C and beauty dose will enable your skin to reach its full brightened potential. Vitamin C is an incredible all-rounder that targets fine lines, scarring and dullness, it is a potent antioxidant that aids skin’s regeneration revealing fresher cells from underneath and fights off free radicals that can damage our cells.
FOR exfoliation
AHAs & BHAs
Incredibly important for any skincare routine and skin concern, exfoliation is important when wanting to dissolve a rough skin texture, remove dead skin cells and reduce the appearance on scarring and hyperpigmentation. The key ingredients for exfoliating the skin are AHAs (alpha hydroxy acids) and BHAs (beta hydroxy acids). AHAs are a naturally occurring substance that can loosen the top layer of the skin’s bond revealing newer, softer and healthier-looking skin underneath. BHAs are an oil based soluble (AHAs are water based), that gets down into the pores and unclogs them. With anti-inflammatory and antibacterial properties, they are also perfect for treating acne-prone skin.
It is important to note that many ingredients can be used as a dual function but by highlighting the most important ingredient you can work through what products already exist in your routine and how they are working for your skin as well as what might be missing that can be added.