ACIDS THAT ARE SUMMER APPROVED
Many topics are often up for debate when it comes to skincare and one of these can be if you can use acids in the summer? Discover the truth and how to look after your skin in the summer.
July 10, 2020
Acids That Are Summer Approved
ACIDS THAT ARE SUMMER APPROVED
Many topics are often up for debate when it comes to skincare and one of these can be if you can use acids in the summer? Discover the truth and how to look after your skin in the summer.
By: Nateisha Scott
By: Nateisha Scott
The debate around using acids in the summer is linked to photosensitisation and irritation the skin. Photosensitisation is how irritated and sensitive the skin can become when exposed light and UV rays and as we all are aware, the increased daylight hours and warmer temperatures exposes us to a different climate that will affect our skin. Photosensitisation can be triggered by many factors that include antibiotics, antidepressants, some anti-inflammatories, retinoids and acids. The effects of photosensitisation is truly dependent on your skin’s DNA, absorption and skin type but can be triggered by the sun. Linking photosensitisation in with acids ( AHAs and BHAs), acids can photosensitise the skin as the do their job in generating cell renewal and revealing an improved complexion. However, if you continue to apply a high and broad spectrum SPF everyday, the protection will keep the skin shielded from the potential exposure delivered through photosensitisation.
So, when we are talking about acids, what are we referring too?
NON-EXFOLIATING ACIDS
Not all acids slough away dead skin cells, hyaluronic acid is a humectant hydrator that draws moisture to the skin.
Lactic acid, a AHA but it is also a humectant hydrator and in the right formulation it doesn’t act as a potent exfoliator but instead pulls the moisture to the complexion and won’t cause sun sensitivity.
Citric acid, a AHA but formulated with extremely small amounts, it doesn’t effect the skin if exposed to the sun.
Vitamin C, the saviour for brightening the complexion and evening out the skin tone. Vitamin C is an antioxidant that fights and nuetralises free radicals but it doesn’t protect the skin from the sun. Continuing to apply your vitamin c won’t unsettle your skin’s harmony as long as you continue to apply SPF on a daily basis.
RETINOIDS
Probably the harshest and most debateable when it comes to summer treatments, designed to help control acne and breakouts, reduce hyperpigmentation, slow down the development of lines and wrinkles and smooth out your skin’s appearance, retinol in a must have for skincare routines. Retinol is doctor approved to be used in the summer but ensure you apply it at night, on clean skin followed by a moisturiser and then SPF in your morning routine. It is still encouraged to use for its benefits behind cell turnover but to apply at night rather than in the morning to reduce the risk of skin photosensitivity.
AHAS, BHAS & PHAS
The backbone to any skincare routine when considering exfoliation, AHAs, BHAs and PHAs are the masters when it comes to sloughing away dead skin cells and de-clogging pores. Once summer sets in apply your acids through a multi-acid acid complex verses a single higher concentrate and apply your acids at night as opposed to the morning. Your morning routine should be focused on protecting, hydrated and soothing, and implanting products such as the Hyaluronic Acid Aqua Booster, Y Theorem Serum, Antioxidant Energising Essence and NAC Y2 Restorative Cleansing Balm from the Reparative Collection as an option and leaving your acids, exfoliation and harsher ingredients for at night.
Simply put, continue with your acids through the summer months but opt for an evening focus and apply SPF daily.
The debate around using acids in the summer is linked to photosensitisation and irritation the skin. Photosensitisation is how irritated and sensitive the skin can become when exposed light and UV rays and as we all are aware, the increased daylight hours and warmer temperatures exposes us to a different climate that will affect our skin. Photosensitisation can be triggered by many factors that include antibiotics, antidepressants, some anti-inflammatories, retinoids and acids. The effects of photosensitisation is truly dependent on your skin’s DNA, absorption and skin type but can be triggered by the sun. Linking photosensitisation in with acids ( AHAs and BHAs), acids can photosensitise the skin as the do their job in generating cell renewal and revealing an improved complexion. However, if you continue to apply a high and broad spectrum SPF everyday, the protection will keep the skin shielded from the potential exposure delivered through photosensitisation.
So, when we are talking about acids, what are we referring too?
Non-exfoliating Acids
Not all acids slough away dead skin cells, hyaluronic acid is a humectant hydrator that draws moisture to the skin.
Lactic acid, a AHA but it is also a humectant hydrator and in the right formulation it doesn’t act as a potent exfoliator but instead pulls the moisture to the complexion and won’t cause sun sensitivity.
Citric acid, a AHA but formulated with extremely small amounts, it doesn’t effect the skin if exposed to the sun.
Vitamin C, the saviour for brightening the complexion and evening out the skin tone. Vitamin C is an antioxidant that fights and nuetralises free radicals but it doesn’t protect the skin from the sun. Continuing to apply your vitamin c won’t unsettle your skin’s harmony as long as you continue to apply SPF on a daily basis.
Retinoids
Probably the harshest and most debateable when it comes to summer treatments, designed to help control acne and breakouts, reduce hyperpigmentation, slow down the development of lines and wrinkles and smooth out your skin’s appearance, retinol in a must have for skincare routines. Retinol is doctor approved to be used in the summer but ensure you apply it at night, on clean skin followed by a moisturiser and then SPF in your morning routine. It is still encouraged to use for its benefits behind cell turnover but to apply at night rather than in the morning to reduce the risk of skin photosensitivity.
AHAs, BHAs & PHAs
The backbone to any skincare routine when considering exfoliation, AHAs, BHAs and PHAs are the masters when it comes to sloughing away dead skin cells and de-clogging pores. Once summer sets in apply your acids through a multi-acid acid complex verses a single higher concentrate and apply your acids at night as opposed to the morning. Your morning routine should be focused on protecting, hydrated and soothing, and implanting products such as the Hyaluronic Acid Aqua Booster, Y Theorem Serum, Antioxidant Energising Essence and NAC Y2 Restorative Cleansing Balm from the Reparative Collection as an option and leaving your acids, exfoliation and harsher ingredients for at night.
Simply put, continue with your acids through the summer months but opt for an evening focus and apply SPF daily.
If you were to advise a London guide, what would be on your list?
Well, As I grew up in Notting Hill, it will always have my heart and if I was recommending spots in London, a wander around Notting Hill would be high up on my list. From there it would be all the best shopping destinations, the iconic private members club, Annabels, Harrods and Liberty’s for any cute and unique gifts. I would always pop into 111CRYO at Harrods for the Cryo Facial and treatment for the ultimate recharge. Sometimes the city is great, but the beautiful secrets of the English countryside is something that should be experienced.
Your In-Flight Essentials?
I don’t have a routine per say and I am certainly not as thorough as Naomi Campbell but I would apply the Meso Infusion Lip Duo and I would always wipe my phone down with anti-bacterial wipes, in fact I do this every day, the bacteria build up is no good for the skin.
In terms of Industry, where do you see the hair industry going?
Well Instagram has changed so much and has impacted the way we consume and learn within the industry, especially with so many creatives, but I still find that a massive amount of people come to the professionals to share the knowledge on how to carry out or complete a desired look, more than ever there is power behind ‘how-to’ videos.
A very valid point and in terms of 2020?
In terms of what we are to see in 2020, things are going to be super creative and we will see a wider awareness for people doing their own thing and it will be expressive and artistic. People will move away from the overtly glamorous looks and will create looks they can tailor to their everyday. As it’s currently Award Season which is the busiest time of the year leading up to the Met Ball, hairstyles are certainly more elaborate, and everyone loves an up do. I would say the most timeless look has to be the blunt bob, it comes around year on year, but it is effortless and timeless.
Outside of hair, what other industries are you into?
I am hugely into Interiors and I would describe my style as 60s/70s glamour, think elaborate and dramatic but I often fantasise about 80s Dallas and Joan Collins and I have to reign myself in. I also love Baking; it is the ultimate way to relax and I find that it is my meditation and therapy. If I’m in the USA I would bake a lot of cookies as everyone is obsessed with then over here and in the UK, I would bake more traditional styles like a lemon tart or an apple tart – it allows for me to be creative outside of my job.
Finally, the best advice you have ever received?
It would have to be from my grandfather, he would often say to me “it’s not how well you’re doing but how well people think you’re doing”. I haven’t successfully implemented it however you can look to Instagram today and people see our work and are blown away by it, but we can be so hard on ourselves and not appreciate our own work ourselves.